Dozens of restaurants here offer down-home Sonoran-style food, and most offer refried beans. And they are very, very good. But those at St. Mary's Mexican Food just west of downtown are the creamiest, taste-bud-thrilling and burrito-filling best in town. You can enjoy them as part of your meal at the small establishment, or you can take them home by the pint or quart. (You might have to call ahead for a gallon.) The other menu items are terrific, too, and their house-made tortillas are divine disks which are undeniably worthy of accompanying those heavenly beans, which are the true gifts of a saint.
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