READERS' POLL RUNNER-UP: Frank's, 3843 E. Pima St. Don't worry; be happy! The semiotic chaos one encounters in modern-day America finds a microcosmic encapsulation in Frank's. All around, signs point to certain modalities or dimensions just beyond human perception. The setting is, for the most part, pure Arizona gothic: walls festooned with eagles, Xeroxed patriotic declarations, Polaroid photographs of people brandishing tattoos, children's drawings, toy Indian headdresses, random trophies, etc. It is the signs, however, that give pause. "Elegant dining elsewhere," reads one, the unexpected adverbial clause causing not a few ravenous diners to consider, if only for a moment, their own mortality. "Welcome to Frank's, relax and be amazed," reads another, engendering severe cognitive dissonance in those who simultaneously attempt both. The waitstaff, always friendly and accommodating, move with Nureyevian precision through the claustrophobic space, delivering steaming mounds of delicious eggs, hash browns, bacon and sausage. Breakfasts range from $2.65 to $6.75; the spinach omelet is particularly recommended.