Café Jinx, a six-table bijou on Fourth Avenue, feels like a teeny tiny toy cabaret. It's a low-tech, no-phone, one-woman operation, all bootstraps and shoestrings, where fresh food and wordplay and cabinets of curiosities get mixed up and spangled with light. The menu is a cast of characters and a program of songs to be performed: Our favorite sandwiches are SmartAss Bob, Blaze on My Little Tumbleweed, The Ghost Walks on Friday, and Bète Noire. Ethel the Queeny is a salad who delights us on hot days. The striped red interior reminds us of that night in Paris in 1915 when the little bulldog invited us into his salon for absinthe and fortune cookies, and lit all the Chinese lanterns at once.