Best Undercover Chinese

Wah Lee

2513 N. Campbell Ave.

STAFF PICK: Due to its nondescript strip mall storefront, most people wouldn't guess just how much fun Wah Lee packs into its homestyle Chinese food -- rest assured, it's a ho lotta fun. The wide rice noodle known as ho fun (stop giggling) appears in a multitude of dishes, including soups and stir-fry. The noodles are part of the special Chinese menu (other items include Chinese greens and steamed fish), but if that's too exotic for you, Wah Lee offers many other choices on its huge, unerringly tasty menu. All the standards are there, as well as the thinnest lo-mein noodles in town, a thick and satisfying hot-sour soup, and smoky sautéed broccoli. We think the broccoli's signature sapor comes from liberal doses of liquid smoke, but whatever it is, it has us on our knees. The Lee family runs the friendliest, most attentive business in town (they've even unlocked the door for us after hours), and Wah Lee should have lines out the door round the clock. In an area abuzz with traffic, it's definitely worth a perilous left-hand turn off of Campbell at any hour of the day.

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