Until last year you had to cross the border to savor this treat, but recently coctél de elote
has turned up on the streets of Tucson. It's a Styrofoam cup of hot, nubbly field corn off the cob in a salty broth with lots of margarine and cotija cheese, served with lime juice, salsa and mayo, slurped up with a spoon. It's satisfying, cheap and delicious. The best way to find it is to cruise South Twelfth Avenue and look for signs, since providers come and go. We can't promise they'll still have it, but Martha's Market, 5015 S. 12th Ave., was serving it up last time we got the craving.