Forget the margarita. As taste-makers embrace Nuevo Latino cuisine and libations, the mojito (moe-hee-toe) sweeps the planet with the greatest of ease, the daring exotic drink on the flying trapeze. Rum is classically Cuban, so take a long sip and let the lively combination sensation massage your mouth. It's like a liquid Ricky Ricardo in a glass where you can close your eyes, swivel your hips and hear the bongo drums from another dimension. Although the Bamboo Club makes a decent mojito, the very best is served at J-Bar in a medium-sized tumbler with ice, imported white rum, sprigs of fresh muddled mint, simple syrup, a squeeze of lime and a spritz of soda. Refreshing and oh so baa-baa-loo.