The irony, of course, is that Chihuahua, Mexico, is no nearer to the ocean than Arizona. So let's all just pretend, shall we? Mariscos makes it as easy as a Disney flick, surrounding you with floor-to ceiling murals bursting forth with foamy waves. If you're really nearsighted, and you don't sit by a window onto reality, you can actually imagine you're having these elaborate fish dishes on the beach. At Mariscos, seafood is rarely the heart-healthy option. A favorite grilled dish features enormous shrimp stuffed with cheese and wrapped with bacon. The inimitable culichi sauce, yummy even on bland filets, is loaded with cheese, cream and mild green chilis. For a little of everything, try the siete mares soup--all seven seas, right here in the desert.