Best Italian

Reading the menu at Gavi is an undertaking akin to perusing an almanac--small print, thick with detail and immutable fact, and replete with meatballs. Er, we suppose that last part is peculiar to Gavi. Nevertheless, the point is that Gavi's selection is unequaled in the torpid confines of T-Town, which must be rather annoying to their servers, to the extent that the average time required for menu consideration must be extremely high. Our experience, however, is that it matters little what you select, because the offerings are of such quality and deliciousness. Round out your meal with a selection from one of the better wine lists to be found in the seven desert seas. Perhaps the only knock on Gavi is that you might be set back many pieces of eight, but as they say on the high seas, you get what you pay for steal. (Note: Do not steal.)

Runners up:

2. Caruso's, 434 N. Fourth Ave., 624-5765, www.carusositalian.com

3. Vivace, 4310 N. Campbell Ave., 795-7221

Sign of the impending apocalypse: Olive Garden, 24 votes