But exhaust and desert heat are nothing to the seasoned roadside diner, and plenty of us were hanging out at Angela’s on a recent afternoon. Some scratched at lotto tickets and nursed bottled sodas. Others mooned at their dates over plates of tacos, or just sat staring across the hazy skyline.

At Angela’s, the holy dining triumvirate of food, service and atmosphere is, shall we say, stripped down. They flash big smiles and bring stacks of napkins, but do not stop to make small talk. The tablecloths feature a lovely jalapeno print, but there is nothing special about them. The food is rudimentary and plentiful, but not out of the ordinary. The salsa bar is sufficient, but not breathtaking.

But there are things that stand out. Take the pico de gallo, which is hot and tasty due to equal parts tomato and jalapeno. Or those bottled sodas, which come out so cold that the first drink is a welcome mouthful of Coke slush. And then there are the ladies who run it, whose shining eyes let you know that they are very happy you decided to stop in.

Angela’s Mexican Food is open from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., daily. Most of the tacos, burritos and quesadillas are less than $5, and a Sonoran hot dog goes for the usual going rate of $2.50 a piece. A soda will set you back $1, and a Sunny Delight is only 75 cents.

• The chicken combo plate in all its glory.