A breakfast plate at El Chivo de Oro (translation: The Golden Goat) will set you back $6, and that includes three handmade tortillas the size of dinner plates. The proper way to enjoy these tortillas is to place one’s face an inch away while pulling back the cloth towel and allowing tendrils of tortilla steam to tickle the neck and fill the nostrils.

Ignore the locals as they stare at the stranger with his head in a basket of tortillas. Breathe.

El Chivo de Oro serves breakfast with three kinds of salsa—two red, and one green. The head tacos, birria, soups and tortas are fresh and good; the dining area is spartan, yet shaded; and the place is open from about sunrise until the wee hours of the evening.

El Chivo de Oro is located in a vacant lot on the corner of 11th Avenue and Irvington Road. Go eat there. You won’t be disappointed.